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Legend has it that in the Mirna valley lived giants who each built a hilltop hamlet. And this tour takes you to two of them. Istria's green hills are a place of mythical beauty, and nowhere more so than in the fairytale villages of Grožnjan and Oprtalj. Ivana, one of our expert local guides, says, ‘Grožnjan was suffering from depopulation in the middle of the 20th century, so artists and musicians were encouraged to come and use its empty houses as studios. Today, there are about 40 ateliers and a popular summer music festival. Adding to the cultural mix, both villages have strong Italian communities.'
Your adventure begins with a scenic drive through Istria's hills to Grožnjan – the artists' colony straddling a ridge. Wander its cluster of lanes lined with handsome stone-built homes, looking out for ancient churches and palaces. If you like arty souvenirs, the many galleries and shops are a great place to browse for handmade gifts such as jewellery, prints, textiles and fine art. Plus, during the summer, the entire town transforms into an open-air stage for jazz and classical musicians.
Next, it's time to take a break with a tasting of local Istrian delicacies, along with wine and olive oil at a typical tavern. Rounding off the day is a visit to peaceful Oprtalj. With a long history stretching back to Roman times, there's a clutch of historic buildings to admire, including the Venetian loggia and the 16th-century St George's church, located at the top of the hill overlooking the town. When you arrive at Oprtalj, your guide will show you around steep stone alleys boasting countryside views.
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